Turn a Conveyor Belt Roller into a High‑Performance Skate Wheel in 5 Simple Steps

Ever looked at a dusty old roller from a conveyor belt and thought, “That could be a sick skate wheel”? If you want to turn a conveyor roller into a high‑performance skate wheel, you’re not alone. At Skate Wheel Workshop we’re always hunting for cheap parts that can be turned into something rad for the board. This guide shows you how to take a plain conveyor roller and turn it into a wheel that can hold its own on the street. No fancy tools, no PhD in engineering—just a bit of elbow grease and a love for tinkering.

What You Need Before You Start

The roller itself

Pick a roller that’s about 2‑3 inches in diameter and made of solid steel or aluminum. Most small‑scale conveyors use rollers that are perfect for skate wheels. If it’s rusty, that’s fine—just clean it up later.

Basic tools

A bench grinder or a Dremel with a grinding wheel
A drill press (or a hand drill with a steady guide)
A set of metal files
A ruler or caliper
Safety glasses and gloves

Materials for the wheel

A set of high‑durometer urethane plugs (or you can shape a piece of old skateboard wheel)
Two small bolts (M4 or M5) for the axle
A lock‑nut or set screw to keep the axle from moving

All of these items are things you’ll find around the garage or can grab cheap at a hardware store. At Skate Wheel Workshop we love using what we already have—keeps the cost low and the projects fun.

Step 1 – Clean and Inspect the Roller

First thing’s first: give the roller a good clean. Use a wire brush or a piece of sandpaper to knock off rust and grime. Look for cracks or deep dents. A cracked roller will break under load, and that’s a waste of time. If the roller looks solid, wipe it down with a rag and set it aside.

Pro tip: At Skate Wheel Workshop we once turned a roller that had a tiny nick in it into a wheel, and it split after a few rides. Lesson learned—inspect every inch.

Step 2 – Shape the Outer Profile

Skate wheels have a rounded edge that helps them roll smoothly. Your conveyor roller is probably a flat cylinder, so you’ll need to grind the outer edge into a curve.

Clamp the roller in a bench vise.
Using the bench grinder, slowly shave off material from the outer edge. Keep the grind even on all sides.
Check the shape with a ruler: the radius should be about the same as a regular skate wheel (roughly 2‑2.5 inches).

Take your time here. A smooth, even curve makes the wheel roll better and reduces wobble. If you over‑grind, you can always sand it back a little, but it’s easier to stay conservative.

Step 3 – Drill the Axle Holes

Now you need to make room for the axle. Most skate trucks use a 8 mm (5/16") hole, but you can adapt to your own setup.

Measure the center of the roller and mark the spot with a center punch.
Using a drill press, drill a hole through the middle of the roller. Start with a small pilot bit (like 2 mm) and work up to the final size.
If you want a double‑bolt setup (like a traditional wheel), drill two smaller holes 90 degrees apart around the main hole. These will hold the bolts that lock the wheel to the truck.

Make sure the holes are straight. A crooked hole will cause the wheel to wobble and can damage your bearings.

Step 4 – Add the Urethane Plug

The rubbery part of a skate wheel gives grip and absorbs shock. You can buy small urethane plugs or repurpose an old wheel.

Cut a plug that’s slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the roller.
Press the plug into the hole you just drilled. If it’s a tight fit, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.
Use a file to smooth any excess material so the plug sits flush with the roller’s surface.

If you’re using a piece of an old wheel, you may need to sand it down to fit. The goal is a snug fit that won’t spin inside the roller.

Step 5 – Assemble the Wheel on a Truck

You’re almost there. Time to put the wheel on a skateboard truck and see how it rolls.

Insert the axle bolt through the truck’s hanger and through the roller’s central hole.
Slide the urethane plug into place if it isn’t already snug.
Tighten the lock‑nut or set screw on the bolt. Don’t over‑tighten; you want the wheel to spin freely but not wobble.

Give the wheel a spin. It should turn smoothly without grinding. If you feel any rough spots, go back to the grinder or file and smooth them out.

Test Ride and Fine‑Tuning

Take the board for a short ride around the block. Listen for any squeaks and feel for any wobble. Small adjustments can be made by:

Lightly sanding the outer edge for a smoother roll.
Tightening or loosening the lock‑nut to get the right amount of play.
Adding a thin layer of grip tape to the urethane plug if you need more traction.

At Skate Wheel Workshop we’ve turned dozens of rollers into wheels, and the biggest surprise is how well they perform once they’re balanced. They’re heavier than stock wheels, which can give a smoother ride on rough pavement, and the steel core adds durability.

Why This Hack Is Worth It

Cost: A used conveyor roller can be found for under $5, while a set of quality skate wheels costs $30‑$40.
Customization: You choose the hardness of the urethane, the size of the wheel, and even the color if you paint the roller.
Sustainability: You’re re‑using metal that would otherwise sit in a landfill.

If you love DIY and want a wheel that’s built for your style, give this a try. The next time you see a conveyor roller in a junkyard, remember that Skate Wheel Workshop can turn it into a high‑performance skate wheel in just five steps.