Turn Old Conveyor Rollers into High-Performance Skate Wheels: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Ever looked at a dusty old conveyor roller and thought, “That could be a sick skate wheel”? You’re not alone. With the price of performance wheels climbing, repurposing what’s already in the garage is a cheap way to get a set that feels custom‑made. I’ve been turning junk into ride‑ready parts for years, and the best part is watching a piece of industrial metal spin under my board like it was born for it.

Why This Project Matters Now

Supply chain hiccups have made many skate shops run low on specialty wheels. Meanwhile, factories are scrapping old rollers faster than ever. If you have a spare roller lying around, you’ve got a chance to make a wheel that’s both sturdy and uniquely yours. Plus, it’s a great way to keep metal out of the landfill – a win for the planet and your pocket.

What You’ll Need

Materials

• Old conveyor roller (diameter 2‑4 inches, steel or aluminum core)
• Skate wheel core (standard 22 mm or 24 mm, can be bought cheap online)
• Rubber or urethane sheet (1/8‑inch thick, enough to cut four circles)
• Epoxy resin (two‑part, high‑strength)
• Sandpaper (80, 120, 240 grit)
• Metal file

Tools

• Bench drill with 22 mm and 24 mm bits
• Angle grinder or metal saw
• Clamps
• Marker
• Safety gear – goggles, gloves, mask

Step 1: Pull the Roller Apart

Most conveyor rollers are built in two halves bolted together. Use a wrench to remove the bolts, then tap the halves apart with a rubber mallet. If the roller is a solid piece, you’ll need to cut it in half with an angle grinder. Don’t worry – the outer ring is the part you’ll keep; the inner core is just a mounting platform.

Step 2: Clean and Prep the Core

Scrape off any rust, paint, or grease with a metal file. Run the 80‑grit sandpaper over the surface to give the epoxy something to grip. Wipe clean with a rag and a little denatured alcohol. A clean surface is the secret to a strong bond.

Step 3: Size the Core to Your Truck

Measure the axle width of your skateboard trucks (most are 22 mm, some are 24 mm). If the roller’s inner diameter matches, you’re set. If it’s a little off, you can machine it down with a drill and a metal file. The goal is a snug fit – you want the wheel to sit flush on the axle without wobbling.

Step 4: Cut the Rubber/Urethane Discs

Lay the rubber sheet on a flat surface and trace a 2‑inch circle (or whatever diameter you want for your wheel). Use a sharp utility knife or a small jigsaw to cut out four perfect discs. If you like a wider wheel, cut 2.5‑inch circles instead. Remember, the larger the wheel, the smoother the ride, but also the heavier.

Step 5: Drill the Hub Hole

Mark the center of each rubber disc and drill a 22 mm (or 24 mm) hole through it. Keep the drill bit perpendicular to avoid a crooked hole. A clean, round hole ensures the wheel will spin true.

Step 6: Bond the Rubber to the Core

Mix the epoxy according to the instructions – usually a 1:1 ratio. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the outer edge of the metal core and to the inner edge of the rubber disc. Press the disc onto the core, making sure it’s centered. Use clamps or a simple strap to hold it in place while the epoxy cures (usually 24 hours).

Step 7: Shape the Wheel Profile

Once the epoxy is set, you’ll have a rough wheel shape. Use the angle grinder with a sanding disc to trim any excess rubber and to round the outer edge. Aim for a classic “concave” profile – a little dip in the middle gives better grip on the board. Take your time; a smooth edge makes a huge difference in how the wheel rolls.

Step 8: Finish and Test

Give the wheel a final sand with 240‑grit paper to smooth out any rough spots. Wipe off dust, then spin the wheel by hand. It should rotate freely without wobble. Install it on your truck, tighten the axle nut, and take it for a short test ride. Listen for any rattles – if you hear them, double‑check the epoxy bond and tighten the clamps.

Tips and Tricks from the Workshop

• Use a rubber sheet with a hard durometer (around 90A). It feels more like a factory wheel and lasts longer.
• Add a thin metal shim between the core and rubber if you want extra stiffness.
• Paint the outer edge with spray paint for a custom look – just make sure the paint is flexible so it won’t crack when the wheel flexes.
• Recycle the leftover metal – you can turn it into a small wrench or a set of spacers for other projects.

When to Walk Away

If the roller is heavily corroded or cracked, the metal may not hold the epoxy well. In that case, it’s safer to scrap the project and look for a cleaner roller. Also, if you’re after a super light wheel for street skating, a steel core might feel too heavy; aluminum cores are lighter but need more careful drilling.

The Payoff

After a few evenings in the garage, you end up with a set of wheels that cost pennies in material but feel like a custom set from a boutique brand. The ride is smoother, the grip is solid, and you’ve turned trash into treasure. Plus, you’ve got a story to tell every time you hit the skatepark – “Those wheels? I made ‘em from a conveyor roller.”

So next time you see a dusty roller on a pallet, don’t toss it. Pull it into the Skate Wheel Workshop, follow these steps, and roll out a set of wheels that’s truly your own.