How to Cast Perfect 28mm Miniatures at Home: A Step‑by‑Step Guide for Tabletop Gamers

You’ve just bought a fresh batch of 28mm models, but the price tag makes you wince every time you look at the box. A good cast can save you a bundle and give you a stash of spares for those “oops‑I‑broke‑my‑figure” moments. Plus, there’s something oddly satisfying about watching liquid resin turn into a tiny warrior right on your kitchen table. Let’s walk through the whole process, from mixing the first drop to polishing the final piece, so you can keep your army growing without breaking the bank.

Gather Your Materials

Before you pour anything, make sure you have the basics within arm’s reach. Missing a single item can turn a smooth afternoon into a frantic scavenger hunt.

Silicone mold – a two‑part silicone kit works best for 28mm. You can buy a pre‑made mold or make your own from a master sculpt.
Resin – two‑part epoxy or polyurethane resin. Epoxy is easier to work with for beginners.
Mixing cups and sticks – disposable plastic works fine; you’ll want a separate cup for each batch.
Vacuum chamber (optional) – helps pull bubbles out of the resin. If you don’t have one, a simple pressure pot or a gentle tap on the side of the cup can do the trick.
Release agent – a light spray of silicone spray or a dab of petroleum jelly keeps the resin from sticking to the mold.
Protective gear – nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and a mask. Resin fumes can be a pain if you breathe them in.
Fine sandpaper (400‑800 grit) – for cleaning up sprues and flash.
Paints and brushes – once the cast is done, you’ll want to bring it to life.

Tip: Keep a small notebook handy. Jotting down the exact resin‑to‑hardener ratio and the cure time for each batch saves you from guessing later.

Prepare the Mold

Clean the Master

If you’re making your own silicone mold, start with a clean master sculpt. Any dust or fingerprints will show up in the final cast. I usually give my sculpt a quick wipe with a lint‑free cloth and a dab of isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry completely before moving on.

Build a Mold Box

A simple wooden or acrylic box works. The walls should be at least 5 mm higher than the highest point of the sculpt. Seal any gaps with hot‑glue or silicone caulk so the silicone doesn’t leak out.

Mix and Pour Silicone

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the silicone mix ratio. I like to measure with a small kitchen scale – it’s more accurate than eyeballing. Stir slowly to avoid whipping air into the mixture. Once mixed, pour the silicone in a thin stream from one corner of the box, letting it flow over the sculpt. This “flood‑fill” method pushes bubbles toward the edges where they can escape.

After the silicone cures (usually 12‑24 hours), pop the mold out of the box and give it a gentle wash with warm, soapy water. Let it dry fully before you start casting.

Mix the Resin

Measure Precisely

Resin and hardener must be combined in the exact ratio the product calls for – most are 1:1 by volume, but some are 2:1 by weight. Use a graduated syringe or a digital scale for consistency. A small mistake can cause a soft spot or a sticky finish.

Stir Slowly, Scrape the Sides

Take your mixing cup, add the resin, then the hardener. Stir for about two minutes, scraping the bottom and sides with a stick. The goal is a uniform, clear mixture. If you see streaks, keep stirring – they’re a sign of incomplete mixing.

De‑bubble (Optional)

If you have a vacuum chamber, place the cup inside for 30‑45 seconds. The vacuum pulls bubbles to the surface where they pop. No chamber? Give the cup a few gentle taps on the workbench and let it sit for a minute; bubbles will rise on their own.

Cast the Miniature

Apply Release Agent

A light mist of release spray inside the silicone mold helps the resin separate cleanly. Too much can leave a film on the finished piece, so a quick spray and a wipe with a paper towel does the trick.

Pour the Resin

Hold the cup close to the mold opening and let the resin flow in a thin stream. This reduces the chance of trapping air. Fill the cavity just to the top – a little extra is fine; you’ll trim the excess later.

Let It Cure

Most epoxies cure at room temperature in 4‑6 hours, but a full 24‑hour cure gives the strongest result. Keep the mold on a level surface where it won’t be disturbed. I like to cover it with a cardboard box to keep dust out.

Demold and Clean Up

Pop the Cast

After the resin has fully hardened, gently flex the silicone mold to release the miniature. If it sticks, a tiny wiggle with a craft knife or a soft brush can help. Never force it – you risk breaking the piece or tearing the mold.

Trim Sprues and Flash

Use a sharp hobby knife or a pair of flush cutters to cut away any sprues (the little “trees” that fed the resin). Sand the cut edges with 400‑800 grit sandpaper until they’re smooth. I always wear a mask while sanding; resin dust is not pleasant to inhale.

Check for Bubbles

If you see a tiny bubble trapped inside the figure, a quick dip in a warm water bath (about 50 °C) can soften the resin enough to let the bubble rise and pop. Be careful not to over‑heat; the resin can become sticky.

Paint and Finish

Now the fun part begins. Prime the miniature with a thin coat of spray primer – it helps the paint stick and shows you where any imperfections remain. Then paint as you would any 28mm figure: base coats, washes, and highlights. A clear matte sealant protects your work from handling wear.

Keep Your Mold Happy

Silicone molds can last for dozens of casts if you treat them right. After each session, wash the mold with warm soapy water, rinse, and let it air‑dry. Store it flat, away from direct sunlight, and avoid crushing it with heavy objects.

Quick Recap

Gather all tools and protect yourself.
Make or buy a clean silicone mold.
Measure and mix resin precisely, stir slowly.
De‑bubble if you can, then pour a thin stream into the mold.
Let it cure undisturbed for at least 24 hours.
Demold, trim, sand, and paint.
Care for your mold for future casts.

Follow these steps, and you’ll have a steady supply of crisp, clean 28mm minis ready for any tabletop showdown. The first few casts might feel a bit trial‑and‑error, but once you get the rhythm, you’ll wonder how you ever played without a home casting setup. Happy sculpting, and may your dice always roll in your favor.