How to Cast Perfect 28mm Fantasy Miniatures at Home – A Step‑by‑Step Guide

You’ve got a fresh batch of ideas for a new squad, but the local shop is out of stock or the price tag is scary. Making your own 28mm miniatures at home can save money, let you tweak designs, and give you a satisfying sense of control. In this post I’ll walk you through every stage, from silicone mold to final polish, so you can start printing your own heroes without a lot of guesswork.

Why 28mm is the Sweet Spot

Most tabletop games use 28mm figures because they balance detail and size. At this scale you can see facial features, armor plates, and even tiny tattoos, yet the pieces are still small enough to fit on a crowded board. The good news is that the same basic process works for any 28mm design – you just need the right tools and a bit of patience.

Materials You’ll Need

Silicone Rubber for Molds

Silicone captures fine detail and stays flexible, so you can pull the cast out without breaking delicate parts. I use a two‑part tin‑cure silicone; it’s cheap and cures in about 30 minutes.

Resin or Metal Alloy

For most hobbyists, two‑part epoxy resin is the easiest. It pours clear, cures fast, and needs only a mixing cup. If you prefer metal, a low‑temperature pewter works, but you’ll need a small furnace and safety gear.

Release Agent

A thin coat of silicone spray or a dab of petroleum jelly prevents the resin from sticking to the mold.

Mixing Tools

A disposable cup, a wooden stir stick, and a small syringe for the resin.

Finishing Supplies

Fine sandpaper (400‑800 grit), a hobby knife, and a little bit of primer and paint.

Step 1 – Prepare Your Master Model

Start with a clean, solid master. I usually sculpt in polymer clay because it hardens and can be sanded smooth. Make sure the model has no loose bits and that any undercuts are intentional – they will affect how easy it is to release the cast.

Tip: If you’re using a 3‑D printed master, give it a light coat of epoxy filler and sand it smooth. This removes the tiny layer lines that can show up in the final cast.

Step 2 – Build a Mold Box

Cut a piece of acrylic or sturdy cardboard a few centimeters larger than the model on all sides. Tape the edges together to form a shallow box. Place the master inside, securing it with a dab of hot glue so it doesn’t float when you pour silicone.

Leave at least 5 mm of space above the highest point of the model – that’s the “pour height” and gives the silicone room to flow.

Step 3 – Mix and Pour Silicone

Follow the silicone manufacturer’s ratio exactly – usually 1:1 by weight. Stir slowly to avoid bubbles, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup. Once mixed, let it sit for a minute, then gently tap the cup on the table to release trapped air.

Pour the silicone in a thin stream at one corner of the mold box. The silicone will flow over the model and push out any bubbles ahead of it. If you see a bubble stuck to a detail, use a toothpick to pop it before it sets.

Cover the mold box with a lid or a piece of cardboard and let it cure for the recommended time (usually 30‑45 minutes).

Step 4 – Demold the Silicone

When the silicone feels rubbery and no longer sticky, gently flex the box and lift the silicone out. Peel it away from the master, starting at the lowest point. If the master is stuck, a little more release agent can help.

Inspect the mold for tears or missing detail. Small tears can be patched with a bit of fresh silicone before you move on.

Step 5 – Prepare the Casting Resin

Measure the resin and hardener according to the instructions – most epoxy kits use a 1:1 volume ratio. Mix thoroughly for at least two minutes, scraping the sides and bottom. The mixture will turn a faint amber; that’s normal.

Add a few drops of pigment if you want colored miniatures, or keep it clear for a later paint job.

Step 6 – Cast the Miniature

Apply a light coat of release agent inside the silicone mold. This step is often skipped, but it makes a huge difference when you’re pulling tiny figures out.

Place the mold on a level surface and pour the resin slowly into the deepest part. Fill it just to the top of the cavity; any extra will spill over and can be trimmed later.

Tap the mold gently to let any bubbles rise to the surface. If bubbles persist, a quick pass with a small torch (or a hair dryer on low) can pop them.

Let the resin cure as per the product’s instructions – usually 2‑4 hours for epoxy. For metal pewter, heat the alloy to the melting point, pour, and let cool for about 10‑15 minutes.

Step 7 – Remove and Clean Up

Once cured, flex the silicone gently and push the miniature out. It should pop free with a soft “pop”. If it sticks, a tiny push with a hobby knife at the base can free it.

Trim any flash (extra resin that squeezed out) with a sharp blade. Sand the seams with 400‑600 grit sandpaper, being careful not to sand away fine details.

Step 8 – Prime and Paint

A thin coat of spray primer gives the resin a surface that paint will stick to. I like to use a matte white primer for a neutral base. After the primer dries, paint as you would any other miniature – start with a base coat, add washes for shadows, and finish with highlights.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

• Bubbles in the mold – pour slowly, tap the mold, and use a torch if needed.
• Sticky casts – always use a release agent, even if the silicone feels non‑sticky.
• Mold tearing – avoid over‑stretching the silicone when demolding; a gentle flex works better than a hard pull.
• Uneven detail – make sure the master is smooth and free of dust before you pour silicone.

My Personal Shortcut

When I first started, I spent hours trying to get a perfect pour. The game‑changer was using a “gravity feed” – I placed the mold on a slight incline and let the resin flow down the side. It reduced bubbles dramatically and gave me a more consistent fill.

Final Thoughts

Casting your own 28mm fantasy miniatures is a blend of art and science. With the right silicone, a steady hand, and a bit of patience, you can produce figures that look as good as any store‑bought piece – and you’ll have the freedom to tweak every pose, weapon, or armor plate. Keep a notebook of your mix ratios, cure times, and any tweaks you make; the process gets smoother with each batch.

Happy casting, and may your tabletop battles be ever epic!