From Sunrise to Sunset: A Photo-First Guide to Iceland's Remote Highlands

There’s a reason the Highlands feel like a secret whispered among photographers and wanderers – they are the place where light behaves like a shy animal, showing up only when you’re patient enough to wait. In a world that’s always “on,” taking the time to chase that fleeting glow can change the way you see not just a landscape, but your own creative rhythm.

Why the Highlands Matter

The highlands are not just another stop on a road trip; they are a canvas that refuses to be rushed. Unlike the crowded streets of Reykjavik, this part of Iceland is defined by volcanic ash, black basalt, and endless horizons that stretch until the eye blurs. The silence out here is a rare commodity, and it forces you to listen – to the wind, to the crack of a distant glacier, to the quiet thrum of your own thoughts. That stillness is what makes a photograph feel alive, because the image captures a moment that most people never get to experience.

The Light Factor

In the highlands, the sun is a fickle friend. In summer it barely sets, painting the sky in pastel pinks that linger for hours. In winter, the low angle of the sun creates long shadows that sculpt the terrain like a giant’s hand. Knowing when and where that light will hit a particular ridge can be the difference between a generic shot and a story‑telling frame.

Getting There: Logistics Without the Headache

Choose the Right Season

If you’re a first‑timer, late June to early August is the sweet spot. Roads are mostly passable, and the weather, while still unpredictable, leans toward the cooperative side. That said, the shoulder months of May and September have their own charm – fewer tourists and a softer light. Just be ready for sudden rain or a surprise snowflake.

Rent a 4×4 (or a Trusty Jeep)

The F-roads that snake through the highlands are gravel, river crossings, and occasional potholes that would make a city driver weep. A vehicle with high clearance and four‑wheel drive isn’t a luxury; it’s a lifeline. I still remember the first time I tried to cross a shallow river in a compact car – the engine sputtered, the water rose, and my heart raced faster than the camera shutter. Lesson learned: never skimp on the wheels.

Pack Smart, Pack Light

You’ll be driving long distances with limited fuel stations, so bring extra water, a basic first‑aid kit, and a portable stove. A compact travel pillow can turn a rough night in a campsite into a surprisingly restful sleep. And yes, a spare tire is non‑negotiable – the highlands love to surprise you with a flat.

Golden Hours and Hidden Gems

Landmannalaugar: A Palette of Colors

If you’ve ever wanted to photograph a rainbow that isn’t in the sky, this is it. The rhyolite mountains flash pink, green, and orange depending on the sun’s position. Arrive early in the morning; the low light makes the colors pop without the harsh contrast that midday brings. I spent an hour wandering a trail that felt like walking through a living watercolor, and the resulting shots still make my inbox buzz with requests.

Hveravellir: The Steam‑Filled Oasis

Nestled between two glaciers, Hveravellir is a geothermal field where hot springs bubble up like a natural jacuzzi. The steam creates a soft veil that diffuses light beautifully. I timed a shot just as the sun slipped behind a ridge, and the steam turned the scene into a dreamscape. Pro tip: bring a polarizing filter to tame the glare on the water surface and bring out the rich blues in the sky.

Askja and the Víti Crater

This is the spot where you can stand on the edge of a volcanic crater and look down into a turquoise lake that seems to glow from within. The best photos come when the sun is low, casting long shadows that emphasize the crater’s depth. Be prepared for a rough drive and a short hike, but the payoff is worth every breathless step.

Gear Tips for the Wild

Camera Body

A mirrorless system with good low‑light performance works best. The highlands rarely give you perfect lighting, so a sensor that can handle ISO 3200 without too much noise is a blessing.

Lenses

A wide‑angle lens (14‑24mm on full‑frame) captures the sweeping vistas, while a 70‑200mm telephoto lets you isolate distant textures – think distant basalt columns or a lone puffin perched on a cliff. I keep a fast prime (35mm f/1.8) handy for those intimate moments when a sudden gust of wind lifts a veil of ash across the scene.

Filters

A circular polarizer reduces glare on water and brings out the saturated colors of the volcanic rocks. A neutral density (ND) filter lets you experiment with long exposures, turning a rushing river into silky ribbons even in bright daylight.

Batteries and Memory

Cold weather loves to drain batteries faster than a gossip column devours rumors. Carry at least two spares, keep them in an inner pocket close to your body, and swap them out before they die. As for memory cards, I use a 128GB UHS‑I card for raw files and a smaller 32GB card for quick backups.

Respecting the Land and Its Stories

The highlands are not just a backdrop; they are a living heritage shaped by centuries of sagas and folklore. When you hike, stay on marked paths to protect fragile moss and lichens that can take decades to recover. Pack out everything you bring in – even a stray piece of gum can scar a mossy field for years.

I once met an elderly farmer near Þórsmörk who shared a tale about a hidden spring that only appears after a full moon. He warned me not to disturb it, and I respected his wish. The next night, under a silver sky, I found a tiny pool reflecting the moon like a mirror. I photographed it from a distance, honoring both the story and the landscape.

Closing Thoughts

Traveling through Iceland’s remote highlands is a reminder that the best photographs are born from patience, preparation, and a deep respect for the place you’re documenting. When you chase the sunrise over Landmannalaugar or linger at sunset in Hveravellir, you’re not just capturing a picture; you’re weaving yourself into the fabric of a land that has been waiting for curious eyes for millennia. So load up your gear, map out your route, and let the highlands teach you how light, silence, and a little bit of daring can turn a simple click into a lasting story.