How to Restore a 1930s Remington Typewriter in 5 Simple Steps

A dusty Remington on a shelf is more than a relic; it’s a portal to a time when each keystroke felt like a small ceremony. Restoring one today means you can hear that clack‑clack again, and maybe even write a love letter the way our grandparents did. Let’s walk through the process together, step by step, with a few stories from my own workshop.

Why a 1930s Remington Still Matters

The 1930s were a tough decade, but Remington kept rolling out machines that were built to last. Their steel frames, solid keys, and simple ribbon system make them ideal candidates for a hands‑on revival. Unlike many later models, the internals are easy to see and touch, which is a blessing for anyone who enjoys the tactile side of history. Plus, a well‑restored Remington can fetch a nice price at a flea market or simply become a cherished writing companion.

The Five Steps

Below is the roadmap I follow each time I bring a Remington back to life. Feel free to adapt the order to fit your own setup, but keep the spirit of each step intact.

1. Clean the Exterior and Disassemble the Keyboard

Start by laying a soft cloth on your workbench. Use a gentle brush (an old paintbrush works fine) to sweep away dust from the body, the key caps, and the carriage. For stubborn grime, a mix of warm water and a drop of mild dish soap does the trick—just be careful not to let any liquid seep into the moving parts.

Once the surface is clear, remove the key caps. Most 1930s Remingtons have a simple “pop‑off” design: a gentle pry with a flat‑head screwdriver or a butter knife will release the cap without breaking it. Keep the caps in a tray so you don’t lose any. While the caps are off, you can see the key stems and the little springs that give each key its bounce.

Personal note: The first time I stripped a Remington, I found a tiny paper note tucked under a key cap. It read “Do not forget to feed the cat” in a hurried scrawl—clearly a reminder from a busy writer. It reminded me that these machines lived in real lives, not just museums.

2. Inspect and Repair the Mechanical Parts

With the keyboard exposed, look for obvious wear: bent levers, broken springs, or rusted metal. A good Remington will have a solid steel frame, but the smaller parts can corrode over decades. Use a fine‑grade steel wool pad to gently rub away surface rust. For deeper rust, a light application of white vinegar on a cloth works well; let it sit a few minutes, then wipe clean and dry thoroughly.

If you find a broken spring, you can often replace it with a similar one from an old typewriter or a hardware store. The key is to match the tension; a spring that’s too weak will make the key feel mushy, while one that’s too strong will make typing tiring.

3. Clean the Ribbon Mechanism and Replace the Ribbon

The ribbon is the heart of the ink system. Remove the ribbon spool and unwind the old fabric. Even if the ribbon looks intact, the ink may have dried out, causing uneven typing. Clean the spool housing with a soft cloth and a dab of isopropyl alcohol to remove any residue.

When you install a new ribbon, thread it according to the little arrows printed on the machine. Make sure the ribbon runs smoothly over the guide rollers; any snag will cause the ink to blot or skip. I like to use a black fabric ribbon for a classic look, but a red or blue ribbon can add a splash of personality to a restored piece.

4. Lubricate Moving Parts Sparingly

A little oil goes a long way. Use a light machine oil—sewing machine oil or a drop of 3‑in‑one works fine. Apply a tiny drop to the carriage rails, the key stem pivots, and the ribbon feed rollers. Move the carriage back and forth a few times to spread the oil evenly. Avoid over‑lubricating; excess oil can attract dust and eventually gum up the works.

Quick anecdote: My first attempt at lubrication left a greasy film on the keys, and the next day the machine felt sticky. A quick wipe with a lint‑free cloth solved it, and I learned the “one‑drop” rule the hard way.

5. Reassemble, Test, and Fine‑Tune

Put the key caps back on, re‑attach the ribbon spool, and close the machine. Now comes the fun part—testing. Load a sheet of paper, engage the carriage return, and type a few lines. Listen for the familiar “ding” at the end of each line and feel the resistance of each key. If a key sticks, double‑check that its spring is seated correctly and that no debris remains.

Fine‑tuning may involve adjusting the tension of the carriage return lever or tightening a loose screw on the platen (the roller that feeds paper). Small adjustments can make a big difference in how smooth the typing experience feels.

A Few Extra Tips from My Workshop

• Work in a well‑ventilated area. Even mild cleaners can release fumes that irritate the nose.
• Label small parts. A simple piece of masking tape with a number helps you keep track of where everything belongs.
• Take photos. Before you start, snap a picture of the assembled machine. It’s a lifesaver if you need to remember how a part fits back.

Restoring a 1930s Remington is not just about making a machine work again; it’s about reconnecting with a piece of history that still has a voice. When you hear that first clean “clack” after a long silence, you’ll understand why I keep a shelf of these beauties in my study. They remind me that every story—whether typed on a modern laptop or an old Remington—begins with a single, deliberate press of a key.