How to Craft Authentic Victorian Mourning Hair Jewelry: A Step-by-Step Guide

When a loved one passes, the Victorian world offered a quiet, tactile way to hold memory close – a strand of hair turned into a piece of jewelry. Today, that practice feels both intimate and oddly modern. Whether you are a history buff, a maker, or simply looking for a heartfelt tribute, learning the old methods can bring a deeper sense of connection. Below is my tried‑and‑true process, honed in my studio and tested on countless commissions for Mourning Threads.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather these items. Most can be found at a craft store or online specialty supplier.

• Human hair – preferably a lock taken from the deceased, but a lock from a close relative works as well. The hair should be clean, dry, and free of styling products.
• Gold or silver wire – 20‑gauge works well for most pendants and brooches.
• Fine‑gauge beading wire – 24‑gauge is ideal for wrapping hair.
• Jeweler’s saw and fine blades – for cutting metal settings.
• Pliers – flat‑nose, round‑nose, and chain‑nose varieties.
• Fine sandpaper or a polishing cloth – to smooth edges.
• Jeweler’s glue or clear epoxy – a tiny amount for securing hair.
• A small drill or hand‑held rotary tool – for making tiny holes in metal.
• Protective gloves and a well‑ventilated workspace – safety first, even for delicate work.

Preparing the Hair

Clean and Straighten

Victorian hair art relied on hair that was clean and straight. Gently wash the lock in lukewarm water with a mild soap, rinse well, and lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Do not use heat; the hair will become brittle. Once dry, lightly comb it with a fine‑tooth comb to remove any tangles.

Section and Measure

Decide how much hair you need for your design. A typical mourning pendant uses about 2‑3 inches of hair, while a brooch may need 4‑5 inches. Cut the hair with sharp scissors, keeping the ends neat. If you want a longer, flowing look, you can gently stretch the hair over a low‑heat setting on a hair dryer for a few seconds, but be careful not to scorch it.

Designing the Setting

Victorian makers often used simple shapes – hearts, teardrops, or oval lockets – that framed the hair like a tiny window. Sketch your design on paper first. I find that drawing a quick outline helps me visualise where the hair will sit and where the metal will need reinforcement.

Cutting the Metal

Using a jeweler’s saw, cut your chosen metal into the desired shape. For a pendant, a 1‑inch oval works beautifully. Keep the edges smooth with fine sandpaper; a rough edge will snag the hair later.

Drilling the Eyelet

If your piece will hang from a chain, you’ll need a tiny eyelet. Use a small drill bit (about 0.5 mm) to make a hole near the top edge of the metal shape. Take your time – the metal is thin and can crack if you push too hard.

Assembling the Piece

Forming the Wire Base

Wrap a length of 20‑gauge wire around the metal setting to create a shallow “basket” that will hold the hair. This wire frame should follow the contour of the metal, leaving a small lip around the edge. The Victorian technique called this a “cage” – it keeps the hair from slipping out while still showing it.

Securing the Hair

Lay the hair inside the wire cage. Gently pull the ends of the wire together, tightening just enough to hold the hair in place without crushing it. If you need extra security, dab a drop of jeweler’s glue on the back of the hair and let it set for a few minutes. The glue should be invisible once the piece is polished.

Adding Decorative Elements

Victorian mourners loved tiny beads, pearls, or even a small lock of a different colour to symbolize a particular sentiment. Thread a few 2‑mm pearls onto the beading wire and weave them around the hair, securing each with a tiny loop of wire. This adds texture and depth without overwhelming the delicate strand.

Finishing Touches

Polishing

Give the metal a gentle polish with a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners; they can damage the hair. If you used silver, a light tarnish is authentic and adds to the period feel, but a quick polish will bring out a subtle shine.

Attaching the Chain or Pin

For a pendant, attach a short jump ring (a tiny metal loop) to the eyelet and slide on a chain of your choice. For a brooch, use a pin back – a small metal clasp that pins the piece to clothing. Make sure the connection is secure; a loose pendant defeats the purpose of a keepsake.

Final Inspection

Hold the piece up to the light. The hair should be clearly visible, framed by the metal, and free of any stray fibers. If you see any gaps, add a bit more wire or a tiny dab of glue. The goal is a piece that feels both fragile and sturdy – just like memory itself.

Caring for Your Mourning Jewelry

Victorian hair pieces were meant to be worn close to the skin, so they were built to last. To keep yours in good condition:

• Store it in a soft pouch away from direct sunlight.
• Avoid exposure to perfume or harsh chemicals.
• Clean gently with a dry cloth; never soak the piece in water.
• If the hair begins to fray, you can re‑wrap it using the same method – the metal cage makes repairs straightforward.

A Personal Note

I remember the first time I made a hair pendant for a client whose mother had passed that spring. She handed me a single curl, still damp from the funeral wash. As I dried and straightened it, I felt a quiet reverence, as if I were handling a piece of history itself. When she later wore the finished pendant at her mother’s graveside, the tear she shed was not just grief but a recognition that the past had been lovingly woven into the present. That moment reminds me why I keep this craft alive on Mourning Threads – it is more than ornamentation; it is a bridge across time.

Crafting Victorian mourning hair jewelry is a meditation as much as a skill. Follow these steps, trust your hands, and let the memory guide your design. The result will be a piece that speaks in the quiet language of the past, yet feels entirely personal to you.