How to Pick the Right Bobsleigh Runner and Cut Your Ice Time

You’re staring at a stack of runners in the garage, wondering which one will actually make you faster. It’s a question I’ve asked a lot, especially after a few close calls on the track. Getting the right runner can be the difference between a podium finish and a “nice try.” In today’s post for Ice Track Chronicles I’m breaking down the process step by step, so you can pick a runner that fits your sled, your style, and the ice you’ll be racing on.

Why Runners Matter More Than You Think

Runners are the shoes of a bobsleigh. They’re the only part that touches the ice, so they control how the sled slides, turns, and brakes. A good runner lets the sled glide smoothly, while a bad one can make you wobble or lose speed in a corner. That’s why every pilot I’ve ever known spends at least a few hours just testing runners before a big race.

Step 1 – Know Your Ice Conditions

Check the temperature

Ice isn’t the same all winter. When the air is around -5 °C (23 °F) the ice is hard and slick. When it’s colder than -15 °C (5 °F) the surface gets a bit rough. Warmer ice (near 0 °C) can get mushy. Your runner choice should match the temperature you’ll be racing in.

Look at the humidity

High humidity can make a thin layer of water sit on the ice, making it slippery. Low humidity dries the surface out, which can make the ice a little more “grippy.” If you’re racing in a humid day, go for a runner with a smoother base. If it’s dry, a runner with a tiny bit of texture can help you stay stable.

Step 2 – Understand the Runner Types

There are three main families of runners you’ll see on the market:

At Ice Track Chronicles I’ve tried all three. My favorite for early season races is the hybrid because it handles the changing ice without a big penalty.

Step 3 – Measure Your Sled’s Geometry

Every sled is a little different. The distance between the front and rear runners (called the “wheelbase”) and the width of the sled affect how the runner sits on the ice.

1. Measure wheelbase – Use a tape measure from the front runner’s tip to the rear runner’s tip. Write it down.
2. Check sled width – Measure the distance between the inner edges of the two runners.
3. Compare to runner specs – Most runner manufacturers list the ideal wheelbase range for each model. Pick a runner that matches your numbers.

If you’re not sure, the staff at your local sled shop can help you line it up. I once tried to fit a runner that was meant for a 2.8 m wheelbase on my 2.6 m sled. The sled felt “tight” and I lost a few tenths of a second on the straightaway.

Step 4 – Test for Fit and Balance

Install the runner

Place the runner on the sled’s mounting brackets. Make sure the bolts are snug but not over‑tightened. A loose bolt can cause the runner to wobble, while a too‑tight bolt can warp the runner’s shape.

Check the balance

Sit in the sled (or have a teammate sit) and push the sled forward a few meters on a flat surface. If one side feels heavier, you may need to adjust the runner’s position a few millimeters left or right. A balanced sled will track straight on the ice.

Step 5 – Do a Quick Ice Test

If you have access to a short stretch of ice (even a practice track), do a quick run:

1. Start slow – Get the sled moving at about 30 km/h.
2. Feel the glide – Does the sled feel smooth or does it “grab” the ice?
3. Turn a corner – Notice if the sled wants to drift outward or inward.

Take notes. At Ice Track Chronicles I keep a small notebook with a simple table: temperature, runner type, feel, time. Over a season you’ll see patterns. For example, I found that on a cold, dry day the profiled runner gave me 0.12 seconds faster on the straightaway, but on a warm, humid day the hybrid was more stable.

Step 6 – Choose the Right Finish

Runners come with different finishes:

• Polished – Very smooth, best for hard ice.
• Sanded – Slightly rough, helps on soft ice.
• Coated – A thin layer of polymer that reduces wear.

If you race a lot, a coated runner can last longer, but it may sacrifice a tiny bit of speed. I usually start the season with a polished runner for the best times, then switch to a coated one for the later races when the ice gets worn out.

Step 7 – Keep an Eye on Wear

Runners wear down over time. Look for:

• Scratches – Small lines across the base.
• Rounded edges – The tip of the runner becomes blunt.
• Color change – Some runners turn a darker shade when they’re close to the end of life.

At Ice Track Chronicles I replace my runners after about 30 runs on a hard track. If you race less often, you can stretch that out, but never ignore the signs. A worn runner can make you slower and harder to control.

Step 8 – Trust Your Feel

All the data in the world won’t replace the feeling you get when you’re on the sled. If a runner “feels right,” it probably is. I once tried a brand‑new profiled runner that looked perfect on paper, but the moment I hit the ice it felt jittery. I sent it back and went with a runner that felt familiar – and I ended up on the podium that weekend.

Quick Recap

That’s the whole process I use on Ice Track Chronicles whenever I need a new set of runners. It may sound like a lot, but once you get the habit, it’s as easy as checking the weather before you head out for a ride.

Remember, the goal isn’t just to buy the most expensive runner. It’s to match the runner to the ice, the sled, and your own style. When you get that right, the ice times start to drop, and the whole experience feels smoother – just like a perfect run down a fresh track.

Happy sliding, and may your next run be the fastest one yet.