How to Paint Resin Miniatures Without Those Annoying Brush Marks

If you’ve ever spent an evening trying to get a tiny dragon looking smooth, only to end up with a forest of brush strokes, you know the frustration. At Figurine Finds, I’ve tried every trick in the book, and I finally landed on a simple routine that gives a clean finish every time. Below is the step‑by‑step guide that I use in my own studio. Grab your favorite cup of tea, and let’s get those resin figures looking like they belong in a museum, not a craft class.

Why Brush Marks Happen (And Why It Matters)

Resin is a bit different from metal or plastic. It soaks up paint faster, which can make the brush tip leave a line before the paint has a chance to level out. Those lines look especially bad when you’re trying to show off tiny details. A smooth coat makes the colors pop, the details shine, and the whole piece feel more professional. That’s why Figurine Finds always talks about surface prep and technique before the actual painting.

What You’ll Need

All of these items are things I keep on the Figurine Finds workbench, and they’re easy to find at any hobby shop.

Step 1 – Clean and Smooth the Miniature

Before you even think about paint, give the figure a good wash. Use warm, soapy water and a soft brush (like a toothbrush) to remove any mold release residue. Rinse well and let it dry completely.

If you see any bumps or seams from the casting process, gently sand them with 400‑600 grit sandpaper. I like to do this on a piece of cardboard so the dust doesn’t get everywhere. Light sanding makes the surface even, which is the first defense against brush marks.

Step 2 – Thin Your Paint

Here’s a little secret that Figurine Finds readers love: thin paint is your friend. Thick paint sits on top of the resin and dries before it can level, leaving obvious strokes. Add a few drops of water to your acrylic and stir until the paint looks like thin milk. You should be able to run the brush across a piece of paper and see a smooth line without any clumps.

If you’re using a brand that already says “fluid” or “wash,” you can skip this step, but a tiny bit of extra water never hurts.

Step 3 – Load the Brush Lightly

Now, don’t dunk the whole brush into the paint. Dip just the tip—about the size of a grain of rice—into the thinned paint. Then tap the brush gently against the side of the container to remove excess. This prevents a heavy load that would drag across the miniature and leave a line.

I always keep a paper towel nearby to blot any stray drops before I start. It feels a bit like prepping a canvas, but on a much smaller scale.

Step 4 – Use the “Wet‑On‑Wet” Technique

This is the core of the brush‑mark‑free method. Paint a small area, then immediately blend the edges while the paint is still wet. Here’s how:

1. Start with a tiny patch – a single scale, a part of a wing, or a little section of a torso.
2. Paint the patch using smooth, even strokes. Don’t press too hard; let the brush glide.
3. While the paint is still wet, use a clean, dry brush (or the same brush with a clean tip) to feather the edges. Lightly sweep the brush outward, mixing the fresh paint with the surrounding resin.
4. Repeat across the figure, always overlapping a little with the previous area. This overlapping hides any line that might have formed.

Think of it like drawing with a pencil and then shading the edges so the line disappears. The key is to work quickly, because acrylic dries fast.

Step 5 – Keep the Brush Moist

If you let the brush dry out between patches, you’ll get a “scratchy” look. Keep a tiny droplet of water on the brush tip when you’re not painting. Just a dab on a paper towel will do. This keeps the bristles supple and ready to blend.

Step 6 – Let Each Layer Dry Completely

Patience is a virtue, especially with resin. After you finish a color, let it dry for at least 15‑20 minutes before moving on to the next shade or detail. Rushing can cause the next layer to lift the previous one, creating texture that looks like brush marks.

Step 7 – Apply a Matte Sealant

Once you’re happy with the paint job, seal the figure. A matte sealant helps hide any microscopic brush lines that might still be there. Spray sealants are quick, but if you prefer brush‑on, use a clean, wide brush and apply a thin coat. Let it dry in a dust‑free area.

My Personal Shortcut: The “Glove Trick”

One time I was painting a batch of tiny fairies for a friend’s wedding favors. I kept getting little white streaks on the wings. After a few frustrating attempts, I tried wearing a thin latex glove on my painting hand. The glove prevented my skin oils from touching the brush tip, and the brush glided smoother. It sounded silly, but it worked! If you’re having trouble with sticky brush marks, give the glove trick a try. It’s a little hack I love sharing on Figurine Finds.

Quick Recap

Follow these steps, and you’ll see a big difference in how your resin miniatures look. The next time you pull a new figure out of the box, you’ll be ready to give it a flawless coat without the dreaded brush marks.

Happy painting, and may your miniatures always look as smooth as the stories they tell.