Step‑by‑Step Guide to Inspecting and Maintaining Your Rigging Gear Safely

A cracked sling or a frayed shackle can turn a fun day on the crag into a close call. That’s why taking a few minutes each month to check your gear isn’t just smart—it’s essential for getting home in one piece.

Why a Quick Inspection Beats a Big Accident

I still remember the first time I missed a tiny nick on a chain sling while loading a haul. The load shifted, the sling snapped, and my heart jumped higher than the rope I was climbing. Luckily the gear held, but the scare reminded me that even the best equipment can betray us if we ignore the little signs. A regular inspection catches those signs before they become problems.

What You’ll Need Before You Start

A clean, well‑lit workspace (a garage bench works fine)
A soft brush or old toothbrush
A magnifying glass (the cheap ones are fine)
A ruler or caliper for measuring wear
A notebook or your phone for notes

Having these tools at hand keeps the process smooth and prevents you from improvising with a kitchen knife—trust me, that never ends well.

Step 1: Clean the Gear

Remove Dirt and Salt

Rinse off any mud, sand, or salty spray with warm water. If you’re near the coast, salt is the silent enemy that eats metal fast. A quick dip in a bucket, followed by a gentle scrub with the brush, will reveal the true condition of the surface.

Dry Thoroughly

Pat the gear dry with a lint‑free cloth. Moisture left on the metal can cause rust to start forming in the tiniest crevices. A dry surface also makes it easier to spot cracks later.

Step 2: Visual Scan – The “Eye Test”

Look for Cracks and Deformations

Lay the sling flat and run your eyes along the entire length. Any line that looks like a hairline crack, a kink, or a bend that doesn’t belong is a red flag. For chain slings, check each link for oval shapes—perfect circles should stay round.

Check for Corrosion

Rust appears as orange or brown spots. Light surface rust can be cleaned, but deep pitting means the metal has lost strength. If you see pits deeper than a millimeter, retire the piece.

Examine the Ends

The eye or hook end of a sling takes the most stress. Look for wear around the pin holes, stretched eye loops, or worn‑out pins. A stretched eye can be measured with a ruler; if it’s more than 5 % larger than the original diameter, it’s time to replace it.

Step 3: Feel for Weak Spots

The “Touch Test”

Run your fingers along the sling or chain. A smooth surface should feel uniform. Any rough spot, burr, or raised edge could be a sign of internal damage. For chain, feel each link; a loose link will wiggle more than the rest.

Flex Test (Only for Non‑Load‑Bearing Parts)

Gently bend a short section of the sling (if it’s a webbing sling). It should flex without cracking or making a popping sound. If you hear a snap, the fibers are compromised.

Step 4: Measure Critical Dimensions

Check Length

Use a tape measure to verify the sling’s length matches the label. A stretched sling can be dangerous because it changes the angle of force on the load.

Verify Pin Diameter

For chain slings, measure the pin that goes through the eye. If the pin is worn down by more than 10 % of its original diameter, replace it. A worn pin can slip under load.

Step 5: Test the Hardware

Hook and Shackle Integrity

Open and close each hook or shackle several times. The moving parts should glide smoothly without grinding. Any resistance could mean the bolt is corroded or the latch is worn.

Load Rating Check

Look for the stamped working load limit (WLL) on the gear. If the stamp is worn off or illegible, treat the gear as unmarked and replace it. Knowing the rating is crucial for safe use.

Step 6: Record and Tag

Write down the date of inspection, any findings, and the next inspection date. If you find a defect, label the gear with a bright marker and a note like “REPLACE – 2026‑07”. This simple step saves you from reaching for a piece that you thought was fine.

When to Say Goodbye

Even with the best care, gear has a lifespan. Here are the tell‑tale signs that it’s time to retire a piece:

Any visible crack, deep rust, or pitting
Eye or loop stretched beyond 5 % of original size
Pin or shackle worn down more than 10 %
Repeated flexing leads to fraying or fiber breakage

If you’re ever in doubt, toss it. It’s cheaper to buy a new sling than to risk a fall.

Quick Maintenance Tips to Extend Life

Store gear off the ground, away from direct sunlight. UV rays can weaken webbing over time.
Keep metal parts lightly oiled if you work in a salty environment. A dab of light machine oil prevents rust without attracting dirt.
Rotate your slings. Don’t use the same piece for every climb; give each one a break so wear is spread out.

My Personal Routine

Every spring, after the snow melts, I pull all my chain slings out of the garage and give them the full inspection routine. I set a timer for 30 minutes, play some classic rock, and treat the process like a ritual. It’s oddly satisfying to see a clean, rust‑free sling ready for the season. Plus, the habit keeps me from forgetting to check my gear before a big weekend trip.

Bottom Line

Inspecting and maintaining rigging gear isn’t a chore—it’s a habit that keeps you safe and your equipment performing at its best. A little time, a few tools, and a systematic walk‑through can catch problems before they become costly or dangerous. Keep this guide handy, stick to a schedule, and you’ll spend more time on the rock and less time worrying about the gear.