How to Install Blind Rivets Without a Pop-Rivet Gun (Yes, It’s Possible)

I’ve been there. You’re in the middle of a project, you’ve got a pile of sheet metal, a handful of blind rivets, and then you realize—your pop‑rivet gun is missing. Maybe the neighbor borrowed it. Maybe it’s buried under three years of junk in the garage. Either way, you need those rivets in the metal now.

Here at Blind Rivet Workshop, we get this question a lot. People think you absolutely need that special tool to install blind rivets. And sure, a pop‑rivet gun makes it easy. But is it the only way? Nope. If you’re looking for a full walkthrough, see our guide on installing blind rivets in home projects without special tools. I’ve been messing with fasteners for years, and I’ve learned a few tricks that can save your project when you’re in a pinch.

Today I’m going to walk you through three ways to install blind rivets in sheet metal without a pop‑rivet gun. Some methods are quick and dirty. Others take a little more patience. All of them work if you do it right.

Why Would You Ever Do This?

Look, I’m not saying you should ditch your pop‑rivet gun forever. The tool is designed for a reason—speed, consistent force, and clean results. But life happens. Maybe you’re building a quick bracket in the field. Maybe you’re fixing a fence panel in the rain. Or maybe you just want to see if rivets will hold before you buy the proper tool.

At Blind Rivet Workshop, we believe in knowing the backup plan. When you understand how a rivet works, you can always find another way to set it. Choosing the right blind rivet for your project is the first step; once you know what you need, you can improvise a setting method. A blind rivet (sometimes called a pop rivet) works by pulling a mandrel through the body. The mandrel deforms the back of the rivet, creating a bulge. Your job is to pull that mandrel hard enough to squish it.

That’s all a pop‑rivet gun does—it pulls. So if you can pull hard and straight, you’re golden.

What You’ll Need

Before we jump into the methods, gather these basics:

Blind rivets (make sure they’re the right size for your sheet metal)
A piece of scrap metal to practice on
Safety glasses (the mandrel can snap off and fly)
Something to hold the rivet while you pull—more on that below

You probably already have most of this lying around. Pick the right blind rivet for demanding builds if you’re tackling a heavy‑duty project; the right size and material will save you time and headaches.

Method 1: The Pliers Trick

This is my go‑to when I’m in a hurry. You need a pair of slip‑joint pliers or locking pliers (Vise‑Grips work great).

Steps

Drill a hole in your sheet metal that matches the rivet diameter. Standard rivets need a hole about 1/32″ bigger than the rivet body.
Insert the rivet through the hole from the front (the head side). Make sure the mandrel sticks out the back.
Grip the mandrel as close to the rivet body as possible with your pliers. If it’s slippery, wrap a rubber band around the jaws.
Pull straight back while pushing the rivet head against the metal. This is the tough part—you need steady force. Rock the pliers side to side if it helps.
Keep pulling until the mandrel snaps. You’ll hear a pop. Done.

It takes some muscle, especially with larger rivets. But for small aluminum rivets, this works surprisingly well. Just be careful not to bend the mandrel sideways, or you’ll ruin the rivet.

Method 2: A Bolt, a Washer, and a Nut

This one is my favorite because it uses hardware store stuff. It’s a little slower, but the result is cleaner.

What you need

A bolt that fits inside the rivet body (the threads should grab the mandrel)
A washer bigger than the rivet head
A nut that threads onto the bolt

Steps

Drill your hole and insert the rivet as before.
Slide the washer over the rivet head so it sits against the metal.
Push the bolt into the rivet from the back side—the threaded end should contact the mandrel. This might take a few tries. You want the bolt’s tip to “bite” into the mandrel.
Thread the nut onto the bolt from the front side (over the washer).
Hold the bolt still with one wrench, and tighten the nut with another. As the nut tightens against the washer, it pulls the bolt backward, which pulls the mandrel. Keep tightening until the mandrel snaps.

This basically turns the bolt into a crude rivet gun. It works best with rivets that have a hollow mandrel (most standard blind rivets do). If the mandrel is solid, you might not get enough grip.

Method 3: The Hammer-and-Punch Approach

I’ll be honest—this is the least elegant method. But in a pinch, it’ll do.

What you need

A center punch (or a thin nail)
A hammer
Something to back up the rivet head (a block of wood works)

Steps

Insert the rivet into your hole so the head is flush against the metal. Place the metal on a wooden block with the head side down. The mandrel should be sticking up.
Hold the punch against the mandrel’s end.
Tap the punch firmly with the hammer. The idea is to mushroom the mandrel, creating a bulge that deforms the back of the rivet. This takes careful hits—too hard and you’ll bend the rivet.
Keep tapping until the mandrel snaps.

This method works best for very small rivets, like the ones used in thin aluminum. For anything thicker, you’ll probably just mash the metal. Use it as a last resort.

My Honest Take

None of these methods are as good as using a proper pop‑rivet gun. The force is uneven, you might scratch the metal, and it takes longer. But when you’re stuck, they’ll get the job done.

At Blind Rivet Workshop, I always tell people to keep a cheap manual rivet gun in their toolbox. They cost about the same as a pizza, and they save you a lot of frustration. But if you’re reading this because you’re in the middle of a project right now, go ahead and try the pliers trick. It’s the fastest.

Just remember: safety glasses, straight pull, and don’t be afraid to practice on a scrap piece first.

That’s all for today. Hopefully next time you won’t have to dig through the garage like I did last weekend. Stay safe out there.