How to Craft a Real‑Flower Resin Pendant in 5 Simple Steps (Beginner Friendly)

If you’ve ever stared at a wilted bouquet and wished you could freeze its beauty forever, you’re not alone. I’ve turned that wish into a habit—pressing petals, sealing them in clear resin, and wearing a piece of garden on my neck. The good news? You don’t need a chemistry degree or a fancy studio. With a few everyday supplies and a pinch of patience, you can make a real‑flower resin pendant that looks like it was plucked from a fairytale. Let’s walk through the process together, step by step.

What You’ll Need

Before we dive in, gather everything you’ll need. Having all the tools at hand keeps the flow smooth and saves you from frantic trips to the hardware store.

• Fresh flowers or foliage – Choose small blooms like baby's breath, tiny daisies, or even a single rose petal. Bigger pieces can look heavy in a small pendant.
• Pressing supplies – Heavy books, parchment paper, and a clean flat surface. A flower press works great, but a simple book will do.
• Resin kit – Two‑part epoxy resin (clear, UV‑resistant) and a measuring cup. Most kits come with a mixing stick.
• Mold – Silicone pendant molds are flexible and release easily. A 25 mm round mold is a good starter size.
• Protective gear – Nitrile gloves, a mask, and a well‑ventilated workspace. Resin smells a bit like plastic; you’ll thank yourself for the mask later.
• Finishing tools – Fine sandpaper (400‑800 grit), a polishing cloth, and a small drill or jewelry findings for the jump ring.

Step 1 – Choose and Press Your Flowers

The magic of a real‑flower pendant starts with the flowers themselves. Pick blooms that are fully open and free of excess moisture. I love using wildflowers I pick on a Sunday walk; they bring a bit of the outdoors into my studio.

1. Trim each flower to fit the mold. Aim for pieces no larger than 1 cm in any direction.
2. Arrange the petals on a piece of parchment paper, spacing them so they won’t overlap when pressed.
3. Cover with another sheet of parchment and place a heavy book on top. Let them sit for 24‑48 hours. The longer you press, the flatter and clearer the petals become.
4. Check the result. If the flowers are still a bit damp, give them another day. Dry petals will stay crisp inside the resin.

Pro tip: If you’re in a hurry, a microwave flower press can speed things up, but I prefer the gentle patience of a book. It feels like I’m giving the flowers a quiet nap.

Step 2 – Prepare Your Workspace and Mix the Resin

Resin works best at room temperature (around 70 °F). Warm it up a bit if your studio is chilly; cold resin stays thick and bubbles more.

1. Cover your work surface with a silicone mat or wax paper. This keeps spills easy to clean.
2. Measure the resin and hardener in the exact ratio the kit specifies—usually 1:1 by volume. Use separate cups for each component.
3. Combine the two parts in a clean mixing cup. Stir slowly with a wooden stick, scraping the sides and bottom. Stir for about 3‑4 minutes; this ensures a proper cure.
4. Watch for bubbles. If you see a lot, let the mixture sit for a minute; bubbles will rise to the surface.

Personal note: My first batch had a few stubborn bubbles that looked like tiny pearls. I learned to tap the cup gently on the table and then use a small torch to pop them. A quick pass with a kitchen torch works wonders—just keep it moving.

Step 3 – Create the Base Layer

A thin base layer helps the pressed flowers sit flat and prevents them from floating to the top.

1. Pour a small amount of mixed resin into the silicone mold—just enough to cover the bottom (about 1 mm deep).
2. Tilt the mold gently to spread the resin evenly.
3. Let it sit for 10‑15 minutes until it becomes tacky. You’ll know it’s ready when a fingertip leaves a faint imprint.

Step 4 – Arrange the Flowers and Seal

Now the fun part—placing your pressed petals where you want them.

1. Pick up each flower with tweezers. Position them on the tacky base layer. I like to create a loose, natural look rather than a perfect symmetry; it feels more like a real garden.
2. Add a few extra touches like tiny bits of dried leaf or a speck of gold leaf for sparkle.
3. Cover the arrangement with the remaining resin. Pour slowly to avoid trapping air. Fill the mold just to the top, leaving a tiny gap for the finishing layer later.
4. Remove bubbles by gently tapping the mold on the table or using a straw to blow them out.

Step 5 – Cure, Finish, and Wear

Patience is the final ingredient. Resin needs time to harden fully.

1. Cover the mold with a cardboard box or a piece of glass to keep dust away. Let it cure for 24‑48 hours, depending on the kit’s instructions.
2. Demold the pendant carefully. The silicone should release easily; if it sticks, flex the mold a little more.
3. Sand any rough edges with fine sandpaper. Start with 400 grit and finish with 800 grit for a smooth feel.
4. Polish the surface using a soft cloth. If you want extra shine, a tiny dab of jewelry polishing compound works well.
5. Attach a jump ring through the drilled hole (most molds have a small pre‑drilled opening). Close the ring with pliers, and your pendant is ready to wear.

Final thought: The first time I wore a pendant made from a single pink wildflower, I felt like I was carrying a secret piece of spring on my chest. It’s a tiny reminder that beauty can be captured, preserved, and shared.