How to Create Authentic Victorian Hair‑Art Mourning Jewelry: A Step‑by‑Step Guide

When a loved one passes, the Victorian era taught us to keep a piece of them close—quite literally. Today, making hair‑art jewelry is a gentle way to honor that tradition while crafting something beautiful with your own hands. Below is my tried‑and‑true method, refined over years of research and studio work at Mourning Threads.

What You’ll Need

Before you start, gather these items. Having everything at hand keeps the process calm and lets you focus on the delicate work.

Hair

A small lock of hair from the person you wish to remember (usually 2‑3 inches long).
If the hair is dark, you may want to bleach a tiny section to create contrast; if it’s light, a touch of tea dye can deepen the shade.

Metal Base

925 sterling silver or 14‑k gold sheet, about 0.5 mm thick.
A small bezel or pendant setting (you can buy ready‑made ones or make your own).

Tools

Fine tweezers, a small needle‑nose plier, and a jeweler’s saw.
A tiny hammer and a steel bench block.
A fine‑pointed engraving tool for any tiny inscriptions.
A jeweler’s torch or a small butane torch for soldering (if you plan to add clasps).
Polishing cloth and a soft brush.

Adhesives

Clear, archival‑grade epoxy resin.
A tiny drop of waxed thread glue for extra hold.

Finishing Supplies

Patina solution (optional, for an aged look).
A small chain or cord for a necklace, or a sturdy pin back for a brooch.

Preparing the Hair

Clean and Dry

First, wash the hair gently with a mild shampoo and let it air‑dry. Any oils or residue will prevent the epoxy from bonding properly. I once tried to set hair that was still damp; the result was a cloudy, weak spot that never cured.

Flatten and Arrange

Lay the hair on a piece of parchment paper. Use a fine comb to straighten each strand. For a classic Victorian look, arrange the hair in a simple braid, a tiny knot, or a delicate “cable” pattern. Keep the design small—no larger than a quarter‑inch across—so it fits neatly into the metal setting.

Light Staining (Optional)

If you wish to add subtle shading, dip the hair briefly in a weak tea solution, then rinse and dry. This gives the hair a warm, antique tone without altering its texture.

Designing the Motif

Victorian hair‑art often featured symbols like hearts, anchors, or tiny initials. Choose a shape that feels personal.

Sketch your design on paper. A quick pencil drawing helps you see how the hair will sit inside the metal.
Transfer the outline onto the metal sheet using a fine tip marker or a stylus.
Cut the shape with a jeweler’s saw, then file the edges smooth. I like to leave a tiny bevel around the edge; it catches the light nicely.

Setting the Hair in Metal

Create a Recess

Using a small round bur, gently carve a shallow depression in the back of the metal piece—just deep enough to hold the hair snugly. The recess should be about 0.1 mm deep; too deep and the hair will sit too low, too shallow and it will pop out.

Position the Hair

Lay the prepared hair into the recess. Use tweezers to adjust each strand until the pattern looks even. This step requires patience; a steady hand and a good magnifying glass are worth their weight in gold.

Apply Epoxy

Mix a tiny amount of clear epoxy according to the manufacturer’s instructions. With a fine brush, dab a thin line of epoxy around the edge of the recess, then gently press the hair into place. The epoxy will flow into the tiny gaps, locking the hair securely. Wipe away any excess with a cotton swab before it sets.

Let It Cure

Place the piece on a flat surface and let it sit for at least 24 hours. I always set a small timer; the anticipation of opening the box the next day is part of the joy.

Finishing Touches

Polish the Front

Once the epoxy is fully cured, polish the front of the metal with a soft cloth. Avoid rubbing the back where the hair sits; you don’t want to disturb the setting.

Add a Patina (Optional)

If you prefer an aged look, apply a light patina solution to the back of the piece. Wipe it off quickly for a subtle, antiqued effect. This step mimics the natural wear that Victorian pieces acquired over decades.

Attach Findings

For a necklace, solder a tiny loop to the top of the pendant and attach a fine chain. For a brooch, add a sturdy pin back. If you’re not comfortable soldering, a jeweler’s bail can be slipped into a small drilled hole.

Wearing Your Piece

When you first wear your hair‑art jewelry, treat it gently. The epoxy is strong, but the hair itself is delicate. Clean the front with a dry cloth; never submerge the piece in water. I keep my own creations in a soft pouch when not wearing them, and they still look as fresh as the day I made them.

A Personal Note

My first foray into hair‑art was for my great‑grandmother’s 150th birthday. I used a lock of her hair, a tiny silver heart, and a dash of tea stain. Seeing her portrait beside the finished pendant made the whole studio feel like a small museum. That memory still guides every piece I craft at Mourning Threads—each strand a whisper, each metal curve a promise.

Creating Victorian hair‑art is more than a craft; it’s a quiet conversation across time. With the steps above, you can make a piece that honors a loved one and connects you to a rich tradition of remembrance.

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