DIY Resin Casting for 28mm Miniatures: A Complete Beginner’s Guide to Perfect Tabletop Figures

If you’ve ever stared at a blank tabletop and felt the itch to fill it with something you made yourself, you’re not alone. The right mini can turn a good game night into a great one, and with a little resin and patience you can create those figures at home. This guide walks you through every step, so even if you’ve never mixed a single drop of resin before you’ll end up with a sturdy, detail‑rich 28mm soldier that you can proudly paint and roll.

What You Need – The Minimal Toolkit

Before you dive in, gather these basics. You don’t need a full workshop, just a few reliable items.

Resin – Choose a clear, two‑part epoxy resin. The 1:1 mix ratio is the easiest for beginners.
Silicone mold – A two‑part silicone mold of the mini you want to copy. You can buy a ready‑made one or make your own from a master model.
Mixing cups and sticks – Small disposable cups (plastic or silicone) and wooden stir sticks keep the mess contained.
Protective gear – Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and a mask. Resin fumes are not pleasant, and the liquid can stick to skin.
Scale or measuring spoons – Accuracy matters; a kitchen scale that measures grams is ideal.
Release agent – A light spray of silicone spray helps the cast release cleanly, especially on the first few pours.
Sandpaper and files – For cleaning up sprues and flash after the cast cures.
Paints and brushes – Once the mini is ready, you’ll want to bring it to life with color.

That’s it. No fancy vacuum chambers or pressure pots. If you have these items on hand, you’re ready to start.

Preparing Your Mold – Clean, Dry, and Ready

A good cast starts with a good mold. Take a few minutes to treat it right.

Inspect the cavity – Look for dust, fingerprints, or leftover resin from previous pours. Even a speck can show up as a blemish on a 28mm figure.
Wash gently – If the mold is reusable, rinse it with warm soapy water, then dry it thoroughly. A lint‑free cloth works best.
Apply release agent – Lightly spray the inside of the mold and let it sit for a minute. This step is especially important the first time you pour, as silicone can cling to the resin.

I remember my first attempt: I skipped the release spray, and the mini stuck like a stubborn thumbtack. After a few hours of gentle wiggling, I ended up with a cracked figure and a bruised ego. Lesson learned – never skip the spray.

Mixing the Resin – Accuracy Over Speed

Resin chemistry is simple: two parts, mixed together, then left to cure. The devil is in the details.

Measure Precisely

Weigh or spoon equal amounts of Part A and Part B. If you’re using a scale, aim for 30 g of each for a small batch. If you prefer spoons, use the same size for both parts.
Check the temperature – Resin works best between 68 °F and 78 °F (20 °C–26 °C). Too cold and it stays runny; too hot and it cures too fast.

Mix Thoroughly

Stir slowly for at least two minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the cup each time you turn the stick. Fast stirring traps bubbles, which later appear as tiny holes in the mini.
Let it sit for a minute after mixing. This “rest” allows most bubbles to rise to the surface where you can pop them with a toothpick or a gentle tap.

If you notice a swirl of bubbles, give the cup a gentle tap on the workbench. The bubbles will pop and rise, leaving a clearer mixture.

Pouring and Curing – Patience Is a Virtue

Now comes the satisfying part: watching liquid turn into a solid figure.

Fill the Mold

Slowly pour the resin into the mold cavity. Aim for a steady stream that fills the details without splashing.
Watch the flow – The resin should creep into every nook of the miniature. If you see a dry spot, tilt the mold gently to coax the liquid in.

Remove Bubbles

Tap the mold lightly on the table. The vibration helps any remaining bubbles rise.
Use a heat source – A quick pass with a kitchen torch or a hair dryer set on low can melt surface bubbles. Keep the flame moving; you don’t want to scorch the silicone.

Let It Cure

Cover the mold with a cardboard box or a piece of foil to keep dust out.
Leave it alone for the recommended time (usually 24 hours for most epoxy resins). Resist the urge to check early; the resin may feel solid on the surface but still be soft inside.

I once tried to speed things up by placing the mold in a warm oven. The resin cured too fast, and the mini came out with a cloudy finish. Stick to room temperature and the time the label tells you.

Demolding, Cleaning, and Finishing

The moment of truth arrives when you open the mold.

Pop the Mini Out

Gently flex the silicone halves apart. The figure should slide out with a soft pop.
Trim the sprues – Use a fine file or a hobby knife to cut away any leftover resin stems. Be careful not to damage the tiny details.

Sand and Smooth

Sand rough edges with fine‑grit sandpaper (400‑600 grit). Lightly sand the base and any flash.
Polish the surface – A quick rub with a soft cloth can bring out a nice shine before you paint.

Paint Like a Pro

Prime first – A thin coat of white or gray primer helps the paint adhere.
Layer colors – Start with base tones, then add shading and highlights. Miniature painting is an art, but a clean cast makes the job far easier.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Bubbles – Mix slowly, tap the mold, and use a heat source.
Sticky resin – Check the cure time and temperature; under‑cured resin stays tacky.
Mold tearing – Silicone is flexible, but pulling too hard can rip it. Work gently, especially on the first few pours.

Wrap‑Up Thoughts

Casting your own 28mm miniatures can feel like magic the first time you see a clear, detailed figure emerge from a silicone mold. With the right preparation, careful mixing, and a little patience, you’ll be able to produce a steady stream of custom soldiers, monsters, and heroes for your tabletop adventures. The next time you set up a game, you’ll have a personal touch that no store‑bought mini can match.

Happy casting, and may your dice roll true!