Elegant Copperplate Wedding Invitations Made with Brush Pens

A wedding invitation is the first whisper of the day to come. When you hand‑write it in copperplate, the letters feel like a promise, and using brush pens lets you keep that old‑world charm without a dip‑tin of ink. I’ve spent many evenings over a cup of tea practicing this style for friends, and I’ve learned a few shortcuts that turn a daunting project into a calm, joyful ritual. Below is my step‑by‑step guide, from paper choice to the final seal, so you can create invitations that feel as personal as a handwritten note and as elegant as a ballroom chandelier.

What You Need Before You Begin

Paper that Holds the Ink

Copperplate needs a smooth surface that lets the brush glide but also catches the ink just enough to stay crisp. I recommend a heavyweight cotton or linen blend, around 120‑140 gsm. It has a slight texture that adds depth, yet it won’t feather the strokes. If you’re on a budget, a good quality 100 gsm vellum works fine—just test a line first.

Brush Pens

A brush pen with a flexible tip is the heart of this method. Look for a pen that uses water‑based ink, because it dries quickly and won’t bleed through the paper. My go‑to is the Tombow Dual Brush Pen in the “Ink Black” shade; the tip is soft enough for thin up‑strokes and firm enough for the thick down‑strokes that define copperplate.

Tools for Consistency

  • A ruler or straight edge (to line up margins)
  • A lightbox or a window (to trace guidelines)
  • A fine‑point pencil for faint guide lines
  • A ruler‑marked eraser (to lift stray marks without tearing)

Step 1: Draft Your Layout

Start by deciding the size of your invitation. A classic 5 × 7 inch card gives enough room for the wording and a small decorative flourish. Lightly draw a rectangle with your pencil, leaving a ¼‑inch margin on all sides.

Next, write the wording in a plain font on your computer and print it out at the size you want. This will be your reference for spacing. Place the printed text under a lightbox, then trace the baseline and the height of the capital letters with a very light pencil line. Keep these lines faint; you’ll erase them later.

Step 2: Warm Up Your Hand

Copperplate is all about contrast—thin up‑strokes and thick down‑strokes. Before you touch the invitation, do a quick warm‑up on a scrap sheet. Practice the basic “nib” motion: start with a light, upward flick, then press down as you move the pen forward. Think of drawing a wave that rises gently and then drops with confidence. Do this a few times until the rhythm feels natural.

Step 3: Sketch the First Letter

Using the faint pencil lines as a guide, lightly sketch the first letter of each line with a regular pencil. This step is optional but helps keep your spacing even, especially if you’re new to copperplate. Keep the sketch very light; you’ll want it to disappear under the ink.

Step 4: Ink the Copperplate

Now the fun begins. Hold the brush pen at a 45‑degree angle. For an up‑stroke, lift the pen slightly and glide it upward; the tip should barely touch the paper, leaving a thin line. For a down‑stroke, press the pen down and pull it forward, allowing the tip to flatten and lay down a thick line.

Start each word with a thin up‑stroke, then transition into the thick down‑stroke for the main body of the letter. Finish with a thin up‑stroke again. This creates the classic “hairline‑to‑broad” contrast that defines copperplate.

Take your time—rushing makes the strokes uneven. If a line looks too thick, you can gently lift the pen and add a thin line over it once the ink dries, but it’s easier to aim for the right pressure the first time.

Step 5: Add Flourishes

Traditional copperplate invitations often include simple swirls or loops at the ends of words. To keep the look elegant, limit flourishes to the beginning of the invitation (like a decorative “M” for “Maya”) and the closing line. Use the same brush pen, but make the strokes slightly looser. Think of a gentle wave rather than a tangled knot.

Step 6: Let It Dry

Water‑based ink dries faster than traditional dip ink, but you still need to give it a solid minute per line to avoid smudging. Lay the cards flat on a clean surface, and if you’re working in a humid room, place a light weight (like a clean book) on top to keep the paper from curling.

Step 7: Erase the Pencil Guides

Once the ink is completely dry, use a soft eraser to lift away the pencil lines. Work gently; the paper may be a bit softer after the ink has settled. You’ll be left with crisp, clean letters that look like they were drawn with a dip nib.

Step 8: Add the Final Touches

Color Accents

If you want a hint of color, dip a fine brush into a very light wash of gold or blush and paint a thin border around the edge of the card. Keep it subtle; the copperplate itself should remain the star.

Wax Seal

A wax seal adds a tactile finish that feels like a small ceremony in itself. Choose a seal that matches your wedding monogram or a simple “&”. Warm the wax, press the seal, and let it set for a minute. The seal not only looks lovely but also protects the invitation from dust.

Step 9: Pack and Send

Place each invitation in a sturdy envelope that matches the paper weight. If you’re mailing them, add a small piece of tissue paper to keep the cards from sliding around. I love sealing the envelope with a thin strip of twine—another nod to the hand‑made feel.


Creating copperplate invitations with brush pens may seem like a lot of steps, but each one is a chance to slow down and enjoy the process. The result is a set of cards that carry your personal touch, your love for lettering, and a whisper of tradition—all without the mess of a dip nib. I hope this guide helps you bring a piece of Ink & Flow into your own wedding day.

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